Today we are installing wireless CarPlay in my pre-LCI BMW i3! These cars never came with this option and I’m very excited to modernize the entertainment system on this 6 year old BMW! Let’s check out the CarPlay retrofit device a little closer and get it installed!
Experience:
I’m happy to report that the device has worked flawlessly for me so far, by the time I drive out of the driveway, the phone is already connected, showing the map and ready to play music. Speaking of music, the sound quality is superb. I have cranked up the volume all the way up and you cannot hear any hiss or distortion even during the quite moments. That is very impressive as I’ve had those issues with knock off devices in the past. Camera, microphone, steering buttons and the iDrive controller are integrated and worked out of the box. One item to mention that some people may ask, No, the song selection does not show up on the instrument cluster display when using the scroll wheels and just shows this message instead, but that’s to be expected. Outside of Apple CarPlay, this unit also supports Apple Airplay, so you can mirror your screen to the display, play YouTube videos or anything else you’d like and of course Android Auto is supported as well. If you have any additional, more specific questions on the BimmerTech MMIPrime, leave your comments below and I’ll be happy to answer them or even make a quick video on the topic. Thank you so much for watching, let me know what you think of this upgrade and subscribe to see more updates on this car, like this screen being replaced with the 10 inch one!
No one likes a dirty car, but when I got my BMW i3 from the auction, I could not believe how dirty it actually was. Not only was it full of filth and trash, but all of the hard surfaces were covered in grime and built up dirt. The soft materials in the car were stained and damaged in many places. I was able to get most of the stains and dirt removed and clean up, but of course there are still some noticeable worn out parts that will have to be replaced in the future.
If you have seen my previous videos on the BMW i3, you may have noticed a lot of issues with this car that you wouldn’t expect to see on a 5-6 year old vehicle! In this video, I go over all of things that are wrong with my BMW i3 and what you can expect to get when buying a car at an auction without inspecting it first. I will be fixing all of those issues as I continue to work on the car and posting as much of it on this channel as possible. Hope you enjoy.
Hey guys and welcome back to the SimpleCarGuy channel. A few days ago, I revealed my new project car, a BMW i3 that I have purchased at an auction. The car came with no key and did not power on once I got the key from the dealer, so in this video I will go over the steps I took in order to get it started, charging and actually driving.
Background:
When I finally got the key from the dealer, I was very excited, but when I got in the car, there was no sign of any life. Of course, that was discouraging, but I knew it has been a few months since the car ran and the 12-volt battery would have died by now. I tried charging it, but it wouldn’t even be recognized by my trickle charger. I then tried connecting a portable power bank that’s powerful enough to start V8 cars and that’s the first time I heard this car make a noise inside the cabin. I didn’t want to damage any sensitive electronics and used a different method to get that 12-volt battery going. More on that in just a little bit.
Later that day, with the 12-volt battery in better condition, I was able to actually turn the ignition on! I was happy and excited, but I immediately saw error messages on the center display and dozens of codes on my scanner. That wasn’t very surprising as the car has just come back to life, so I erased all of the codes and hoped for the best! Unfortunately, the codes that remained did not leave me with high hopes, especially after doing some research.
Research:
I had the generic BMW Drivetrain Malfunction error message on the display and multiple High Voltage codes. As with many problems I run into on my cars, I don’t know how to fix them from the start, but luckily internet and manuals can be a huge help here, so I started doing some research to see what I can find. What I found had me scared as it pointed to a blown pyro fuse that’s built into the battery terminal or worse, the battery pack under the vehicle. One of the codes, 21F0CB indicated that there was a serious crash detected and thus Terminal 30C cannot be switched on and of course that meant that the high voltage battery cannot be charged or used for propulsion. It was a little bit hard to swallow that I may need to drop the battery and find someone with an EOS Tester to verify the battery integrity before I could do anything with the car. Luckily, I found some wiring diagrams that led me to understand that the High Voltage system needs to have a separate signal from the 12-volt battery, so I decided recheck all of the wires. Here is how I got my 12 volt battery to charge and what I found once I started looking under the hood.
Summary/Overview on the fix:
Looks like luck was on my side and the car was able to charge after this easy and simple fix. I definitely got lucky here and now I have a million little things to work on to make this a pleasant and fun car to drive. I’ll go give this car a quick wash and I’ll show you everything that is wrong with this car now that the high voltage system actually works. That video should be out in a few days, subscribe to the channel if you’d like to see that and let me know if you think someone tried to sabotage the car by messing with the wiring. On that note, thanks for watching and I’ll see you in the next one.
Hey Guys and welcome back to my new problem aka an auction bought BMW I3 with a broken side window, gross interior, no key and many other issues! In this video I will go over the reasons why I bought it, the very difficult process of getting a car delivered that doesn’t run and I will show you what it looks like before I start working on it.
Car History:
Before we get into why I wanted a BMW I3, let’s talk about a little bit of history and what makes it special. Anyway, the BMW I3 is very unique in the BMW world and even other brand line ups as it was specifically designed to be an electric city vehicle. The designers and engineers had lots of freedom on what they could do with it and that’s why it has such unique looks, specs and options. The i3 is a rear-wheel drive BMW hatchback that’s made out of carbon fiber which is incredibly light and yet also incredibly stiff. This car weighs only a little over 3000 pounds including the Range Extender which is 500 pounds lighter than the Nissan Leaf. It has a small foot print, but also a lot of interior space that you would just not expect from a small car like this. For what it is, it’s a surprisingly nimble, agile and fun to drive at low speeds. It doesn’t confine to a set of predefined rules on the inside either as you can see exposed carbon fiber reinforced plastics, lots of sustainable materials and revolutionary design that many modern cars are now copying into their own models. Don’t get me wrong, there are many negatives about this car and I will make a video to talk about those in the future, but for now.. let’s talk about why I bought this BMW I3.
Why I bought it:
Of course, this isn’t the fastest or longest-range EV you can buy, but there is something about it that I always found very interesting. Not only is it very unique and quirky, but it also breaks the BMW standards that I’m so used to and I wanted to see how it feels to experience that. I’ve always liked small, fun cars and that’s why I’ve had the Mini Cooper S, the Fiat Abarth and current daily a BMW Z4. This BMW I3 perfectly fits my curiosity and now that the depreciation has done its job, I can comfortably get a project like this. Even if you were to buy one that’s in perfect condition, you can easily get it for under $20k. Of course, that isn’t cheap, but considering these sold for about $50k when new, you are getting a bargain. I got this car at auction, without a key and not knowing if it will run or even start, so I got it for less than half of what you would expect to pay for it retail. So, in my case, it’s a $50k car that I got for cheap. Yes, I said cheap and I know people will complain that I call this car cheap, just like I had complaints on my Mini Cooper S video, but IT IS a cheap car that offers pretty cool features for the price. Of course, it was expensive when new and maintenance on these cars will be that of an expensive vehicle, but if you are willing to accept an example like I got here and do some work yourself, it is very affordable.
Another reason I wanted to get the I3 is because they are no longer selling these new! BMW has switched their concentration to the new generation of electric vehicles with the funny grills and larger SUV sizes. To each its own, but I prefer the quirky looking BMW i3 to the ‘look-at-me and my face’ BMW iX and i4. The i3 is also unique in that it has a gas generator on the rear axle and I don’t think we will see many new cars sporting this option. I find it fascinating in how it works and possibility of adding range. We’ll talk more about how cool that is in the future.
My next reason for getting this BMW I3 is that it gives me an opportunity to learn something I have no experience with. It allows me to try and experience something I haven’t had a chance to play with before. I’m also excited to see what kind of modding or ‘hacking’ possibilities an electric vehicle opens up for me and what I can learn in the process. From minimal research, I know I can increase it’s range by just coding in a larger capacity fuel tank. What else can do with simple coding? Can I increase acceleration or power output or something else like? We will find out together in future videos! That’s what makes it an interesting project for me, it’s an opportunity to learn and educate myself on something I’m not familiar with and just have fun with it!
Buying Car without a key:
Before I finish up this video, I wanted to share my experience of buying an auction car without a key and why you should avoid it if possible! I thought it wouldn’t be a big deal as I’ve purchased a car without a key before. You go to the dealer, show proof of ownership and a couple days later they hand you a key. That’s exactly what I did this time as well. However, due to chip shortage, the key was on backorder without a set date and now I had to receive the car without the key. The problem is that on this BMW I3 it is impossible to put it in neutral if you do not have a key. This may not be a problem on older cars or even many other modern cars where you can force it into neutral in some way, but on this car, you must have a key. This meant when the 18-wheeler showed up, I had to figure out how to pull it off the truck. I had to attach the i3 to my BMW Z4, chock the wheels and have the truck driver slowly drive forward dragging the car off. After that ordeal, I still had to use my rear-wheel-drive convertible to pull the car onto the driveway with the rear wheels completely locked up on the I3. So, unless you are willing to deal with this kind of delivery and hassle, avoid getting a car without a key!
Current State:
Before I finish this video, I wanted to just show you around the car and see what kind of state it came in. It was hard to tell from auction pictures what the interior looked like, but I was not expecting THIS. I was shocked when I first opened the door, to be perfectly honest.
Conclusion:
I plan on fully recommissioning this BMW i3, so subscribe to see my next video where I will show everything that’s wrong with this car, my plan on how I will fix all the issues and how I will get it back on the road. Of course, after everything is fixed and the car is drivable and isn’t gross, I will do all of the maintenance items on it and then start modifying it to my liking. I already have a new bigger display, CarPlay and lots of filters and oils on the way, I’m looking for better wheels and I will most likely wrap the exterior of the car in a fun color or maybe even some graphics. I’d love to hear your suggestions as I build my plan for this car and we turn it into a fun grocery getter or even more! Thank you so much for watching and I’ll see you in the next one.
Hey Guys and welcome back to the SimpleCarGuy channel. Today, I will show you how I installed a reverse camera on my BMW Z4. You can apply this method to any vehicle that has an aftermarket head unit as long as it supports backup cameras. If you’d like to see how I installed the head unit in this Z4, click the link in the top right corner. There are, of course, a few ways to do this, some easier than others, but here goes how I did it. Hope you enjoy.
Since I don’t want to drill a hole in my bumper, I started by modifying the bracket to fit my preferred camera. You want to get this done first and make sure it fits well as making changes after you run the wire will be a lot harder.
Here is when the simple project got just a little more complicated. After connecting the power wires of the camera to the reverse lights on the car, the camera would not power on. I assume this car limits the power sent to the reverse light and it’s not enough to power the camera. Solution here is to install a relay that gets triggered by the reverse light and then sends power to the camera directly from the battery. The relay I ordered also included a fuse, so now we have a much safer, fused installation.
So, here is how I wired it. The red wire on the relay connects to the positive terminal on the battery, the blue wire connects to the positive wire of the camera. Then the blue and black striped wire on the reverse light connector connects to the white wire on the relay and black goes to ground. This means when the reverse lights are on the white wire will turn on the relay which then will connect the camera to the battery over the fuse. I hope that makes sense. I do a visual explanation later in the video if that helps!
I decided to add crimp connectors to pretty much every connection that I made on this install. I like it because you can easily disconnect at any point if needed.
So, here is how it actually works from within the car. It’s very simple to use and that’s the entire idea. All you have to do is put the car in reverse and it will automatically switch to the correct app on the Head Unit and power up the camera in the back. The lines move with the steering wheel, which is great and the quality isn’t too bad for an analog camera. So, was it worth all the work that went into it? Honestly, a camera isn’t really needed in a small car like this and it was a lot of effort, but I like tinkering with my cars and I enjoyed doing some wiring. If you have any questions or concerns, leave your comments below, like the video if you found it useful and I’ll see you in the next one.
After upgrading the speakers and subwoofers in my BMW Z4, it’s now time to modernize the infotainment system even further by installing an aftermarket Apple CarPlay and Android Auto unit with a BMW style controller. My Z4 came with a storage box instead of the screen, so I couldn’t do what I did in my BMW 550 and just add an interface to the existing screen. Anyway, let’s take the car apart and get this installed!
Last generation BMW Z4 (e89) never offered Apple CarPlay or Android Auto and most didn’t even have a screen fitted. My Z4 is a perfect example as it doesn’t have any kind of display and came with a storage box instead. So, in this video I go through each step of installing an aftermarket Android unit that offers CarPlay and AndroidAuto. This unit also displays vehicle information when the car is running. Even though this head unit is touchscreen, I decided to add optional controller to make it easier to use while driving. This unit can be installed on any BMW Z4 E89 that doesn’t have a display or you are willing to replace the original CiC unit.
I have now wirelessly connected my phone to the Apple CarPlay and played with it for a little bit. CarPlay works as you would expect and connects automatically. Of course, you can also use it without connecting your phone and still have music, navigation and car data. This unit pulls this data from the car computer and can show you speed, revs, mileage, temperature and other data in various screens. Anyway, this concludes the install video, subscribe to the channel to see the follow up video for a quick review of the unit after I use it for a couple of weeks. Also, if you have any questions about the install or the unit, leave those down below and I will answer them in the same video. Thanks for watching and I’ll see you in the next one.
Have you ever felt like your stock speakers are just not good enough or you wanted more quality and bass? In this DIY video, I go over each step of installing and upgrading the dashboard speaker, the rear panel midrange speakers, the door speakers and tweeters and even the woofers behind the seats on my BMW Z4 (e89). The speakers and woofers I’m installing are AlphaOne by BimmerTech and I have been very impressed with the quality of the speakers, the sound they produce and even the packaging that they came in. All of the bracketary, adaptors and crossovers were included as well which made for an easy sound system upgrade. BMW Z4 speaker upgrade has been the best modifications I’ve done to the car so far!
My BMW Z4 (E89) came with the HiFi system (S676A), with included the following speakers:
5 x Midranges
2 x Tweeters
2 x Woofers
but you can also find the following sound systems on the E89 platform:
After two years, no help from the dealer or the Indy shop and countless troubleshooting steps, I have finally solved the bad start issue on my BMW Z4. Hey guys and welcome back to the SimpleCarGuy channel! Today, I will go over all of the steps I took to try and solve this problem over the last 2 years, what I’ve learned in the process and how I accidentally solved it.
Quick Preview:
To put a lot of this into perspective, I got the car with a blown engine and swapped in a newer 30k-mile engine in my garage. Since I didn’t use the same exactly engine as I took out, I had to swap a lot of parts in the engine replacement process from the old engine. As a result, I had a few issues once everything was finished, but nothing I couldn’t solve. Except for this bad starting issue. When the car was cold, it would start no problem. However, after the engine was fully warmed up, there was a chance that it wouldn’t start or hesitate while starting. It didn’t help that the car has auto stop and start option and would turn the engine off at each red light.
From the information I have given you so far, what do you think the solution to this problem is? Leave your comments below and NO cheating! Now would also be the best time to hit that LIKE button to support the channel!
Troubleshooting:
Since I believed the issue had something to do with the engine swap, I started troubleshooting some of the more obvious items. I rechecked and retightened all of the ground wires as well as the power wires going to and from the alternator and starter, checked all of the fuses and everything else I could think of. None of it made a difference. To be clear, I never had ANY codes on the car related to this issue.
With the wiring not being the problem, I got to thinking that it must be something to do with the ignition system. The most obvious item that came to mind and something I definitely touched during the swap was the crankshaft position sensor, this sensor tells the rotational position of the crank to the ECU and when it goes back, shows similar symptoms to what I had. Luckily, these are very cheap on eBay, so I swap it out but the problem remained. Similarly, the camshaft sensors monitor the speed and position of intake and exhaust camshaft. ECU uses this information for ignition and fuel control, but after swapping these out as well, I still had the same starting problem.
At this point, I’ve posted on forums, groups and consulted with a few friends and of course everyone gave a different solutions and mostly blamed different sensors that are known to fail on a BMWs. Since I like tinkering with cars, I got right to it! I’ve swapped out the air intake temperature sensor, cleaned and later swapped the mass air flow sensor, tested the coolant temperature sensor on the engine block, unplugged the O2 sensors to see if that made any difference and even looked into the oil pressure sensor as well as checked the oil pressure when the engine was fully warmed up. All was normal, still no codes or any other indication of something being wrong with the engine.
Just to check some items off my list, I smoke tested the vacuum system on the engine to look for any leaks, replaced the vacuum solenoid and even cleaned the PCV valve in the process. Of course the results were still the same.
Knowing that the wires are all secure, the ignition system is operating as expected, most of the sensors on the engine have been replaced or tested and there were no vacuum leaks on the car lead me to believe that it has something to do with the fuel delivery. I started with a big one and replaced the HPFP as I had a spare one from my old engine. The HPFP is one of the common issues on this engine that can cause very similar symptoms. However, even after replacing the fuel pump, the fuel pressure regulator AND testing the fuel rail pressure, my starting situation didn’t change.
Things I’ve Learned:
All of the items I have mentioned so far have had no effect, but replacing the injectors did make a change, just not to how the car started. What I learned was that there were 2 different injector types on the N20 engine, the EU5 and the EU6. Although practically the same, at full throttle, I would get a lean code pop up once in a while. After replacing the newer EU6 injectors with the EU5 Injectors from the old engine, those codes never re-appeared. The reason I’m mentioning this is in case you are troubleshooting a similar issue and didn’t think to look at the injector version.
Dealer:
So, I definitely learned a lot in the process but after all of this time, the car would still be hard to start when warm. Since I couldn’t figure it out, I decided to take the car to a local Indy shop that specializes in German cars. They spent a couple of days troubleshooting the car and at the end told me that it ‘might’ be the Valvetronic servo motor that needs to be replaced. Looking online, it looked like a possible solution, but before I took the engine apart, I brought it to a BMW dealer to check out as well. They scanned the car, logged some data, reset the adaptations on the DME and sent me home. The issue was back before I even got home. Not wanting to pay $200/hour for further troubleshooting, I left it alone and drove the car as is for a while.
Final Fix:
Knowing everything you know now, have you figured out what the issue was? The solution was purely accidental. If you follow my channel, you may have seen a video where I replaced the starter motor on this car. After I removed the old one and got the new one out of the box, I noticed that they were different in size, color and even OE manufacturer. I was sure I ordered the correct starter as I went by part number that came up for my VIN. The reason these two were different is because the starter that was install on my car was for N20 engines that do NOT have the Auto Start/Stop functionality. Someone in the past, installed a starter that technically fit, but was not made for this version of the car. After installing the correct starter and driving for about a week now, I have had absolutely zero issues! This just shows you that you can try 100 different things, but sometimes the solution is hiding in plain sight. I hope some of the troubleshooting steps I talked about help someone fix their cars that have a similar starting problem. For now, I will continue enjoying my BMW Z4 now that it’s 100% issue free. Thank you so much for watching and I’ll see you in the next one!
So, you’re looking at a BMW with the N54 engine but you’ve heard that this may not be the most reliable engine in the BMW line up. Hi guys and welcome back to the SimpleCarGuy channel. Today, we will talk about the history, common problems, issues solved over time, how reliable the engine is 15 years later as well as my personal experience.
The reason I’m making this video is because I owned a BMW 335i e92 with the N54 engine for about 4 years from 2013 to 2017 and I wanted to catch myself up and see how the reliability has been since I sold my car! This is also part of a small series where I’m looking into engines I own or have owned and creating reliability reports like this video. BMW N55 video is coming up soon, so subscribe to see it and hit that like button to support the channel!
History/Background:
BMW N54 is one of the best straight six engines every made by BMW for a few very good reasons. Not only was it the first mass produced BMW turbocharged engine, but it also came with a forged crankshaft and connecting rods leaving HUGE tuning potential. Even though the stock engine made 302 HP, it’s not very difficult to get it up to 500hp or even much, much more. So, how can this reward winning engine [show which awards] have issues? Well, while the actual engine has had some amazing innovations and engineering, a lot of the accessories and auxiliary components are not as well designed. Of course, when looking at a used BMW with the N54 engine, it doesn’t help that a lot of them have been tuned and driven hard! [HUGE tuning potential and people love it, but also abuse it] So, let’s take a look at some common problems you can expect on a BMW N54 engine
Common Issues:
Even though there were 3 different power figures for this engine, mechanically its basically the same engine. I’ll go over the difference between the standard N54B30 and the N54B30TO that was used in the 1 Series M Coupe and Z4 sDrive35is.
N54B30
HPFP
Let’s start with the stand N54B30 engine. The biggest and most common issue that has haunted the BMW N54 engine since the start is the HPFP going bad and preventing the engine from starting, sometimes stuttering, misfiring or running well in general. It was such a big issue that BMW has extended the warranty on these to 10 years and 120,000 miles in the United States. The good part here is that most of the cars have already had the pump replaced with a revised version while under warranty.
Water Pump
Another big common problem on the N54 engine is the electric water pump that uses some plastic parts. These fail unexpectedly and usually at the worst time! I’ve had 2 OEM water pumps fail on me when I had the car. I got the yellow triangle saying that the engine is running hot and within 2 minutes a red triangle with a message saying to drive moderately and to shut off the engine as it has overheating. Unlike the HPFP, there is no extended warranty or anything like that and unfortunately, the pump is very difficult to get to. I paid around a $1000 each time it failed in Chicago. The pump is about $400 and labor is at least that much again.
Fuel Injectors leaking, Ignition Coils
These engines also suffer from leaky injectors. BMW N54 uses direct injection and these must be very precise for the engine to run correctly. Unfortunately, when they start leaking which can cause many different problems including hard to start engine once warmed up, rough idle and misfires as well as terrible fuel economy among other issues. Of course, some of these symptoms can be caused by a bad spark plug or coil and I would definitely recommend replacing those before touching the injectors as each injector is about $250.
Turbochargers/wastegate rattle – people upgrade them for more power
Next issue that’s common on many BMW engines including the N54 is the wastegate rattle. Early on, this isn’t a huge issue as it mostly just makes a rattling noise on start up, it gets worse and worse over time. Eventually, the wastegate flapper starts leaking boost and causing performance issues. If not taken care of at this stage, the ECU will try to compensate for the lack of boost potentially overheating and destroying the turbocharger and maybe even the engine if metal gets into the intake. In addition to the wastegate rattle issue, turbo seals can fail and cause smoke out of the exhaust. These issues are more common on tuned or hard driven cars. Small piece of advice here is to not punch it hard until the engine is fully warmed up and to let the engine idle for a little while after driving hard before shutting off the car. [explain why let it idle][Aftermarket upgrades are very popular.]
Leaks become more common once getting closer to 100k
If you have watched my BMW N20 engine video [link it], this will sound very familiar. There are a few oil leaks to watch out for and the most common one is the valve cover oil leak. Usually, the plastic valve cover will crack and start leaking. Sometimes the gasket goes bad as well and the entire cover should be replaced. It’s important to get this done quickly as it would be leaking on the exhaust manifold, turbos and the O2 sensors. The oil filter housing gasket is also prone to leaking and should be replaced ASAP as it will leak oil onto the serpentine belt and can cause all kinds of problems. Oil pan leaks are less common, but possible.
Chargepipe
The next common issue on these engines is the chargepipe that cracks over time. BMW used a plastic pipe between the intercooler and the intake manifold which runs under boost a lot of times and of course becomes brittle and eventually fails. I’ve had this fail on my N55 [n55] engine as it uses the same design and replaced it with an aftermarket one that works much better. This is an easy and inexpensive fix to a common problem.
Minor items:
There are of course many other little issues with these engines that you may need to take care of over time, such as the starters going bad out of no where [link N20 video] or VANOS solenoids causing loss of power, engine hesitation, rough idle and decreased fuel economy. I have actually made a video on how to test and clean these if you’re interested and they are a decently simple DIY. Carbon build up is another issue that shows up on many lists, but that’s common on most direct injected engine and not BMW or this engine specific.
N54B30TO
As I mentioned earlier, N54B30TO was the more powerful version of the N54 engine making 335HP, but this was achieved mostly by adding a performance power kit tune and some supporting cooling hardware. [list: upgraded fan, radiator hoses, secondary radiator, oil cooler]. So, the engine itself was the same but with just a little more boost. This also means that all problems we have discussed so far are also present on this version of the engine as well.
Best and Worst Years:
Now 15 years after it has been released and after so many problems, should you even be looking at buying one? Luckily, this engine has had somewhat of a cult following lately and is becoming sought after in the tuner’s world. This also means that most people are trying to preserve it and maintain it properly. Additionally, issues like the HPFP and injectors have been resolved from the dealer and mostly done under warranty. Most other issues have been figured out in the aftermarket world with the upgraded turbochargers to get rid of the wastergate rattle and metal chargepipes to prevent boost leaks. One word of advice, avoid getting an already tuned engine if you plan on dailying your ride. [notes on why not]
Personal Experience:
A quick note on my personal experience with the engine. Over the period of 4 years and about 55,000 miles, I had to replace the spark plugs, ignition coils and 2 water pumps and nothing else. In every video I’ve made about the BMW engines I’ve owned, people tell me I just got lucky and that may be true, but it doesn’t hurt to properly take care of these engines as well.
Conclusion:
In conclusion, remember that this is an aging BMW motor that was packed with top-of-the-line technology and most likely driven hard by the last owners, so be ready to spend a little bit of money on maintaining it properly. It’s a wonderful, powerful and still one of the more reliable engines made by BMW with lots of aftermarket support and capability to produce tremendous power! Check out my BMW N20 and N63 engine reliability reports and stay tunes for the N55 video as well. Thank you so much for watching and I’ll see you in the next one!