Mercedes-Benz GLE Hidden Features

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Hi everyone and welcome back to the SimpleCarGuy Channel. Today we have a Mercedes Benz GLE 400, one of the most popular luxury SUVs on the market. This impressive vehicle has many cool features you’d expect from a Mercedes; like the bi-turbo V6 engine, 9 speed automatic transmission, cross stitched leather dashboard and steering wheel, adjustable suspension and excellent steering and handling characteristics, but this video will be simpler. We won’t even talk about the blind spot monitoring, the heated steering wheel, keyless entry, power rear hatch, tons of storage, towing ability or even a full spare tire in the back. What we WILL talk about is some hidden features, tips and tricks and things you may not have known about the Mercedes-Benz GLE 400. We’ll even check out a hidden menu towards the end of the video.

This video should apply to both GLE350 and GLE400 from 2016-2019 model years as the main difference there is mostly just the engine, you get a bi-turbo V6 engine producing 330 horsepower and 354 lb ft of torque in this GLE 400, and before it was discontinued in 2018, you could have had a 300 horse power V6 in the GLE350.

Mercedes GLE400 is considered one of the best highway cruisers based on great comfort, good handling, responsiveness and many different driving modes, but there is one features you probably haven’t realized this car has.

Pre-Safe

Have you even wondered why does the seat belt tighten up a little when you get in and put it on? Well, this is a feature called Pre-Safe and what it does is basically pretension the seat belt and figures out the weight of the occupant inside the car and in an even of an accident, the car knows how tight to pull the seatbelt to keep you as safe as possible. This is what fancy racing cars do!

Crosswind Assist

Another safety item that works in the background is Crosswind Assist, this hidden feature intervenes automatically if the direction and intensity of the crosswind affects your vehicle and stabilizes it by lightly braking one side of the car and making sure you are going straight ahead. This function turns on above 50 mph and can only be turned off by turning off ESP completely which also disabled driving stability, allows your tires to spin freely and active brake assist is no longer available.

EDR

Just like Pre-Safe and Crosswind Assist is calculating all this stuff in the background, this car has a black box of sorts called the Event Data Recorder or EDR that records vehicle dynamics and safety systems in an event of a crash or crash like situation. It will also record whether the seatbelts have been fastened, how fast the vehicle was traveling and what driver inputs were present prior to the event.

Key Fob

Enough about the safety stuff, let’s take a look at some fun ones. We use our key fobs less and less, especially with comfort access, but THIS key fob can do much more than you think. For starters, you can roll down windows and open the sunroof by holding the unlock button and even close them with the lock button as well. Don’t want to take the key fob out? You don’t have to, simple hold the door handle on the sensor like this and it will do the same functions.

Want to check if the battery in the key fob is working properly but you’re not next to the car? Simply hold Lock or Unlock button and the little LED will light up. If it does not, you may need to replace your battery, which can be done by using the mechanical key and popping off the back cover.

Physical Key

Speaking of physical key, this little guy has many functions on its own. Not only can you unlock the front doors, you can also lock the glovebox and cargo compartment when valeting your car and even use it to release the tailgate in an emergency or if the battery is dead.

Tailgate limit

Do you park your car in a garage but afraid that the tailgate will hit the garage door when opening? Well, you can limit the opening angle of the tailgate. To do so, pull the handle on the tailgate to open it and stop it at desired position by pressing the close button on the tailgate or pull the handle on the outside one more time. Then to save this position, press and hold the closing button on the tailgate until you hear two beeps. The tailgate will stop at this position from now on. Very useful!

Fuel Filler Cap Holder

While we are here at the back, let’s check out a feature I wish more people would use. I’ve seen way too many drivers let the fuel filler cap just hang there on the paint work. On this car and many others, you have a little fuel filler cap holder just for this purpose. Nice piece of useful engineering.

Fake Exhaust Tips

What isn’t a useful piece of engineering is fake exhaust tips, I’ve seen it on many inexpensive cars and I can’t stand it and I was hoping Mercedes would be better, but no, it’s the same here.

Before we check out hidden items inside the car, you may be wondering why you have seen other Mercedes SUVs that look very similar but sport the ML badging. Well, this general body style has been in productions between 2012 and 2019, but it only became a GLE from 2016 model year. Prior to this, the car was known as the M-Class or ML400 in this case. Now, let’s jump inside and see what kind of hidden features we can find there.

Hidden Power Socket

We’ll start with a very simple one, there is a hidden 115-volt power socket under the rear seat that can supply up to 150 watts of power. It’s not very easy to see, but definitely useful.

Air vent in the glove box

You know what else is useful? Heated and cooled cup holders, but I’m sure you already knew that one, but did you know that the glove box is also ventilated and will keep your contents cool? Fancy!

Sunblind Reversing Feature

Similarly, out of sight, but very useful if you have kids is the sunblind reversing feature. Some cars now have windows that will stop and reserve if someone’s hand is in the way, but this car will even do so for the sunblind and the sunroof! Safety first!

Extendable sun visors

While we are in this area, *not only do you have 2 sun visors but*(if has 2) these sun visors can be extended to block the sun or prevent glare and improve visibility while on the side of the vehicle.

Conclusion:

As you can see, this seemingly standard SUV hides many interesting facts including some of the ones I have talked about today. If you’d like to see more videos on this car, leave a comment down below as I haven’t even started talking about the air suspension and the versatility it gives you as far as driving dynamics or how you have many different ways of doing most functions without a touchscreen in sight. Anyway, that’s all I have for you guys today, I hope you have learned something new or interesting, like the video for more car content and I’ll see you in the next one!

BMW R Nine T Hidden Features

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Hey guys and welcome back to the SimpleCarGuy channel. Today we are taking a look at some hidden features, tips and tricks and thing you may not know about the BMW R Nine T, also known as the best modern retro styled roadster.

If you have been riding bikes for longer than I have been alive or have had BMW bikes for a while, I’m sure you already know all of the ones below but hey.. maybe there is one that you don’t! If you are a pro, I’d love to hear some tips and tricks below in the comments so we can all learn something cool or new. For everyone else, stick around and I hope you enjoy the video. Let’s get to it!

So, what are some things you may not know about this bike?

  1. If you have owned a modern bike, you probably think that you can just turn off ABS or other safety features with a button, but on the BMW R Nine T you cannot turn off ABS unless you have the new version with throttle by wire. In this case your bike will have traction control as well and you can turn off both using the ASC button.
  2. You may not be able to turn of ABS, but did you know that this bike has an OBD2 port? With a $15 dollar adapter, you can scan the bike, see live data and if you have BMW software or buy a fancy motorcycle scanner, you can do so much more! Very cool.
  3. So, we can read this bike’s computer, but we can also plug in a dedicated GPS or phone charger by using the onboard power socket that’s hidden on the left side of the bike here. This socket is protected just like BMW cars where if the battery voltage falls below the level required to start the bike, it will be deactivated.
  4. If your battery does go below required voltage at some point, you are in luck, because this bike has a built-in trickle charger port. Since the BMW R Nine T uses AGM batteries which can be a little finicky when it comes to charging, you have to follow some steps. You must leave your motorcycle on the trickle charger over winter if not riding or the battery will be trash by spring. IN fact, this bike has had a new battery installed after only 800 miles because the previous owner left it over winter and the fact that it took 2 years to do that many miles. In fact, I have already done about that many miles in the few weeks I’ve owned it. BMW Recommends to plug the bike in if not redden for more than 4 weeks.
    1. Some additional notes on this, you cannot jump start the bike from this socket. The wires are not thick enough and rated for high current and can cause a fire.
    1. It’s also recommended to only use this socket to charge as onboard electronics monitor this socket and know when the battery is fully charged and switch off the onboard socket to make sure if you get a cheap battery tender, you won’t fry your bike or battery. If you’d like to charge you battery directly, it must be disconnected from the bike first.  
  5. The next item on my list is the TPMS or the lack of TPMS sensors on this bike. This is, again, old school so kind of expected, so check your tire pressure. When I picked up my bike and rode it home, I was wondering where was this great handling that everyone has been talking about. The bike kept trying to stand up and was slow through turn. The 15 pounds of pressure made a huge difference and how the bike is very confident on the road and the difference is huge. This is a bit motorcycles 101, but no dumby light here, so check manually.
  6. Speaking of dumby lights, that’s all you get for fuel level as well. There is no fuel gauge on this bike, but you will be informed with a simple light once it’s on reserve.
  7. Number 7 is a parking light. This is pretty common in Europe as far as I understand, but pretty rare on bike in the states. To turn it on, switch off the ignition and then immediately hold the indicator switch to the left until the lights turn on. Cycle the ignition to turn it off.
  8. A feature that surprised me on this bike was actually the auto-cancel indicator switch. If you forget to turn it off, it will actually turn itself off after 10 seconds or 300 meters (almost 1000ft) of driving.
  9. Going back to the battery, if you even need to jump-start the bike, you have to use the connection point on the positive battery terminal under the seat and the negative terminal on the right-side cylinder. Now, of course, the seat cannot just be opened, so it has to be removed. Luckily, you only have to remove 1 screw to remove both seats. Your bike should come with a key for this screw, but I got mine used so I use an actual socket. My replacement Is on the way.
  10. The last thing you may not have know is that you can removed the baffle in the exhaust known as the DB killer to improve the depth of the exhaust sound. It only takes 5 minutes and very easy to do. I have a video on how to do that exactly if you’d like to check it out. It’s also easily reversable if you don’t like it.

A few things you should know about the bike is how to check your fluids! I feel like it’s even more important on a motorcycle than it is on the car. As an example, to check your oil, you have to make sure the bike is warmed up and on leveled surface and hold the motorcycle vertical. Then you have to wait 5 minutes and check the little window. The oil should be between top and button. This and much, much more is in the manual for the bike. People complain that manuals now-a-days only have stuff like don’t drink battery contents, but this manual is actually very useful. You can even learn how to remove and reinstall front and rear wheel. Speaking of wheels and tires, this motorcycle has quick release front axle. Who knew such thing even existed!? I was also surprised that on a modern, although retro looking bike, you would still have tube tires, just like on my 1976 Honda CB360!

Well, that’s all I have or you guys today, I hope you learned something new or at least found it interesting. I’d love to hear your opinion or features I don’t know about in the comments down below, like the video and subscribe to the channel for more content and I’ll see you in the next one!

Upgrading Hyundai Kona’s Fog Lights

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Hey Guys and welcome back to another video on the SimpeCarGuy channel. Do you see a problem with this picture? I SURE DO! Those fog lights definitely do not match the rest of the design and modern look of the car. So, today we are changing them to the same color temperature LEDs. This shouldn’t take you more than 15 minutes total if you have worked on cars before. Hyundai recommends removing the bumper cover completely to replace the bulbs in the fog lights, but of course we aren’t doing that as that’s a big and risky job. I will show you a much easier way. Let’s get started.

In order to do this safely, I throw a chock behind the rear tire to make sure the car will not roll back and then jack it up and put a dolly under the front tire. The jack stays in place under a little bit of tension as well to give me two points of safety. You can of course put the car on a jack stand as well.

You will need just a couple tools for this job, a 10 mil socket and a trim removal tool. If you don’t have one of those, you can use a flat head screw drivers, but you will most likely break some of the clips doing so.

You will only need a couple of things for this job. A trim removal tool and a 10 mil socket.

Next you’re going to climb under the car and remove 7 bolts. What we are trying to do here is remove the plastic underbody panel and get access to the back of the fog lights.  If you have one of these impact drivers, it only takes a few seconds to deal with the bolts.

I really recommend getting one of these trim removal tools as it makes life so much easier. You can use a flat head screwdriver if you don’t have one, but you will most likely break a couple clips. I got a set of 100 clips and the tool for around $10 on amazon if anyone is interested. Once all of the clips are removed, the plastic can be slid forward and out of the way. It took me a total of 5 minutes to get to this point, so even if it’s your first time, it shouldn’t be a big job at all.

Now that we have one of them done, you can see how easy it is to replace these fog lights and look at the difference! It’s huge and it matches perfectly.

Also, I do apologize for the noise in the previous clip, but I wanted to show you in real time how long it takes and the cicadas aren’t stopping for at least another month. Now let’s finish the job by doing the same on the other side. Twist the bulb to unlock, pull it out and insert the new one. Lock it in place and plug in the connector. As easy as that. And here you can see the fan going and making sure the LEDs don’t overheat.

And there you have it everyone, not nearly as hard as it looks! To finish the job, I put the underbody panel back using the bolts and plastic clips and took the car off the jack stand.

Well, that’s all I have for you today, I know this isn’t as easy as it is on some cars, but nothing to be afraid of here. I think it should have came from the factory like this and match the rest of the car and you also get an added benefit of better illumination on turns. Leave a comment down below and let me know what you think of this upgrade and if this video helped you change your fog lights, hit that like button and subscribe to the channel for more automotive content. I’ll see you guys in the next one.

BMW R Nine T DB Killer Mod

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BMW R Nine T has a refined and impressive sounding horizontally opposing twin cylinder engine, but as with most enthusiast vehicles, we want more! In this video, I’m doing my first mod on the bike and the goal is to make the exhaust sound just a little louder and better. I’m removing the DB killers from the Akrapovic mufflers which gives the exhaust note a throatier sound and a lot more depth. I show how to remove the DB killers (exhaust baffle) and the the different of how it sounds before and after giving you more sound for free.

BMW R NineT Review – Perfectly Unrefined

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Intro:

I BOUGHT A BMW R Nine T! Hi guys and welcome back to the channel! Today we are taking a look at pretty much my dream bike. In this video I will go over why I think this is the best modern retro bike and why I wanted it so much. I will also talk about the riding experience and future plans. So, stick around and enjoy this beauty with me!

History:

We’ll start with a little bit of history; I’ll keep this very brief. To celebrate the 90-year anniversary, BMW decided to release a ‘limited run’ bike that would celebrate their heritage and the end of an era using up the remaining engines. That was supposed to be it, but what they didn’t realize is that people absolutely fell in love with these bikes and they have, maybe, un-intentionally, re-ignited the retro styling and the passion for BMW bikes in a lot of riders. Since then, they have released many different versions of the R Nine T, but I went for the original black and silver BMW R Nine T which I would consider to be the top of the range. I love the color schemes on the other versions, but I wanted all of the best this model offers to get the full experience.

If you love the look of this bike as much as I do, hit that like button! Not only does it help the channel out, but it also encourages me to make more videos!

First Impressions

Why I got it:

So, why did I go for the BMW R Nine T? You might think that I bought this bike purely because it is a BMW and while that would be a reasonable assumption judging by my car history, there are a few good reasons other than the brand to get this motorcycle. The first and most important for me was the way it looks. This bike is absolutely beautiful in my eyes and I have loved the design ever since I saw one for the first time. I adore the boxer stance and how it makes the bike look old school and muscular and classic. The heritage can be seen all the way back and I think that’s really cool.

Of course, you can’t buy a bike on design alone, so I test drove one and I found out that there is something very enjoyable about this bike, it has a very sincere mechanical heart and soul. It has all those things that you’d want in a retro bike. As I put in the title, it’s perfectly unrefined and I fell in love with THAT. I’m sure a lot of this has been actually engineered into it, but it feels just so right, especially when you are sitting at a stop light and you can feel the rumble between your legs and the twisting torque from the engine when you give it some revs. It’s glorious.

Other than the superb design and the amazing engineering, this bike has a great value retention. I have been monitoring prices over the last 2 years and they have remained pretty much the same. That fills me with confidence that in a few years, I can trade it for something different without a huge lose.

Now, why did I get this specific one? Well, I wanted the original R Nine T, not the Pure or the Scrambler and it also had ONLY 1200 miles on it. The bike was for sale by owner only 15 minutes from my house with full-service history from BMW where it got a new battery and oil change as well as all of the recalls done by the dealer.

Specs:

So, what are the specs? If you’re not familiar with the bike, you basically got half a Porsche or Subaru motor between your legs as it’s an old school air-cooled horizontally opposing twin cylinder 1170CC, 110 horsepower and 75lb ft of torque engine. A version of this engine used to be in most BMW R bikes for quite a long time and has always been popular and recently, very reliable. The power delivery is very linear and smooth, so the bike pulls with confidence at almost any rev range. As most modern bikes, this comes standard with ABS, but it also comes with huge double floating discs and 4 piston calipers on the front and a 2-piston caliper set up in the back. It also features a fully adjustable upside-down telescopic fork that’s only available on the original R Nine T. My bike has no options as far as I can tell and that isn’t really a problem for me, I only wish the previous owner checked the heated grips options when buying it new.

Riding experience

You can of course read all of the specs online, but what does it translate to when you ride? Well, I want to start this by saying that I have only been riding for a year and I have very limited experience with other bikes. The bike I have spent the most amount of time riding was my old-school Honda CB360 that has been converted to a café racer/brat bike. So, that means my experience and opinions aren’t really based on other bikes, it’s more of a feeling I get from this as my first modern motorcycle.

Weighting in at almost 500 pounds with all of the fluids, my fear was that this thick and heavy girl will be hard to handle for a novice like me, but all the weight is down low, so the center of gravity is low also. It’s kind to the newer riders despite the girth. It actually feels somewhat lightweight and handling has never been a problem for me all.

I also really enjoy this relaxing, but engaging upright riding position with the shoulders wide and plenty of visibility and comfort on longer rides. The grips are large and wide apart, creating a large area for the wind to catch you, but somehow the wind has not been an issue for me, at least at normal/legal speeds. I’ve learned to sit slightly back at higher speeds and lean down to make my shoulders not as wide. So, I do not wish for a windshield or a wind deflector like some people have noted on forums. I was worried about this quite a bit when buying this bike, but it just adds to the experience.

One of my favorites while riding the BMW R Nine T is how confident it is on the road and how it makes me feel like a good rider, the brakes are simply incredible and feel like a super bike with lots of stopping power and adjustability based on your liking. I love the torque-y engine and how you can feel the vibration when you rev it up from idle. That torque and power doesn’t seem to stop and it just keeps pulling and pulling very confidently through the rev range and when you let off the throttle, the pop and bangs make me smile like a kid every single time!

There are a few things that I don’t love as much on the bike and the first one has to be the comfort of the saddle. I think it looks great and I wouldn’t want it to be thick, but after riding for a couple of hours it gets slightly uncomfortable and my butt and thigh area was starting to go a little numb.

What I also didn’t expect was the driveshaft and transmission clunk when shifting, but I’ve learned that this is normal on all BMW boxer, dry clutch and drive shaft motorcycles and have gotten used to it by now. It’s very mechanical feeling so it adds to the experience. I also had to get used to the limited steering lock that pulls you further into a corner at low speeds that made me uncomfortable at first. It also seems to have a wider turning circle than I would expect.

Future Mods:

A lot of people rush to modify cars and bikes shortly after getting them, but I actually prefer to drive or ride my vehicles for a while before doing so. I’m still learning about the suspension preload and different adjustments you can make on this bike as far as the suspension. Not to mention you can change how the clutch and brakes feel and how aggressive they are. There are still many knobs to explore and get ‘just right’. (show small clips of these as b-roll). I will be looking for alternative mirrors as they are large and pretty ugly, but I think that should be an easy swap. I also would like to put a brighter and whiter LED in the headlight and tuck in the back light and license plate cluster. It sticks out too much in my opinion and can look much better. The last item on my to do list so far is to do the exhaust mod to make it a little bit louder. What are your thoughts? What would you modify or change on this bike or would you leave it as is and just ride? Let me know down in the comments.

In conclusion, this is a modern classic blend that’s comfortable enough to be a daily driver with amazing craftsmanship. It’s all the things that are good about the old bikes, without any of the bad. Well, that’s all I have for you guys today, like, comment subscribe and I’ll see you in the next one.

BMW X6 M50i – First Impressions, Overview, Features, Interior, Engine, Exhaust Note

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Introduction/Overview:

Welcome back to the SimpleCarGuy channel. Today, I have something special, A BMW X6 M50i! It’s not a secret that I like small funky cars, so what am I doing with this high fashion SUV? Well, this one is a little bit different from the rest. Not only is it an SUV, but it’s also a COUPE in a way and oh yeah, it’s definitely funky. In this video, we will take a look at the exterior and talk about its distinctive looks, check out the interior, including the tech and other fun features, go over the engine and listen to that sweet V8 under the hood and then take it on a short little drive.

If you’d like to see more videos about this car or even other BMWs, hit that like button to support the channel.

Exterior:

Let’s start with the exterior. Some people believe that every new car, especially from a luxury brand like a BMW is beautiful. That has proven to be controversial when you take a look at the new 4 series with its gigantic grills and the same can be said for the rear of this car.  The front of the X6 is unmistakably BMW with slightly oversized kidney grills and an evolution of the angel lights. It’s striking and aggressive and in this white color, it’s all on display. Car makers can get away with funky lines and some design choices by painting the car black or some other dark color, but here.. you can see it all. This brings us back to the rear of the car where there is a lot of this ‘design’. This X6 has quite a distinctive look that you really have to love. BMW clearly went for style over function with this design sacrificing the room and convenience of the X5 with the slopping rear hatch design. Even if you don’t love how it looks, which you should if you think of getting one, IT IS subjectively speaking quite interesting to look at.

Going around the car, there are a few things to pay attention to. At the front, we have these beautiful full LED or even optional laser headlights and of course full LED taillights in the back as well. I don’t even think there are any non-LED lights left on this car, but I could be wrong. Here at the back, we can also see the defuser that BMW puts on their M-Sport and M cars, it’s given the back a little more segmentation, which could be a good or bad thing. We can also see the quad exhaust pipes that fit into 2 pods. These sound fantastic, so stick around to hear it from the back as well as from inside the car. Another fake item on the exterior that I find kind of funny are the fake vents, not really sure why they would include these as BMW isn’t really know for these.

Thinking of other cars in this segment, what is the X6 really up against as far as looks? There isn’t anything very interesting other than the Lamborghini Urus, but that’s almost in a different category. I much better prefer this to the Mercedes GLE Coupe or the Audi Q8. I think we need to embrace cars and SUVs that look different. We can’t complain that all cars are boring and look the same but then also hate on the makers that try something different. Now, let’s go check out the interior and see what we can find.

Interior:

Alright, so what do we have here? From the start, it feels very rich and luxuries when you get inside and even though it’s very unique looking on the outside, it’s not nearly as unique on the inside. This X6 replaced the X5 I made a couple videos about a few months ago and you can clearly see the interior design has elevated in this generation car. It’s definitely not a complete overhaul, it’s more of an evolution, the screens got bigger, some buttons disappeared, but if you’ve been in a current gen BMW, you have experienced this interior as well. Of course, the fit and finish and the quality of the materials is on another level and it adds many extra features inside that separate it from the more basic BMWs, such as the heated door and middle armrests and it even has some unique features that are not found on the X5 like this door handle area. It feels big and spacious with these amazing 20-way adjustable seats that can adjust just about anything you’d ever want to adjust. (see if they have massage). Speaking of comfort, I think this M sport steering wheel is one of the best in industry, something you’d want to hold on to for hours at a time.

Now let’s take a quick look at the center console area. This interior feature 2 12-inch displays, one for instrument cluster and one for the iDrive or as BMW now calls BMW Live Cockpit Professional. You can control pretty much anything on this car from this screen, which BTW is a touchscreen, but luckily you can still use the physical controller to perform all functions, which I love. I’m also glad that the HVAC system hasn’t been completely moved to the iDrive and you still get physical buttons that you can hit while driving. They might be a little small, but thankfully the trend of removing physical buttons hasn’t hit BMW yet.

Being a new BMW, it has very impressive tech and one of my favorites is the backup and 360-degree camera system that overlays a 3D model making it kind of fun to use. Camera views can also be recorded and even viewed from the phone that has been paired to the car. The sounds system is just as impressive, it has nice deep bass and high-quality midrange and of course you can connect using Apple CarPlay or Android Auto to stream your favorite music.

Moving to the back, the seats here are actually fairly comfortable and have plenty of space for someone that’s 5’10 with a few inches to spare. No issues with leg room either even with the front seat generously moved back. The way they achieve this is by basically making bucket seats in the back, dropping you back and down a little so you actually do have plenty of space and don’t feel cramped at all.

Trunk space is of course not as big as the X5, but the owner of this vehicle was able to fit plenty of stuff while moving and remember, style over function.

Engine:

This new X6 comes with two different options for the engine, the B58 straight 6 turbocharged engine that’s in other M-Sport cars and also in the new Toyota Supra, but those are much smaller and lighter cars, so for this beast, you want the n63 TwinTurbo V8 engine.

It’s important to understand that this is the n63TU3 engine which is the updated version of the engine you got on the last gen 50i cars like my F10 550i. Of course, this one makes 80 more horsepower and 70 more pound feet of torque so it’s definitely been worked on since then. To be clear, it is not the S63 engine that comes on the X6 M, but I think that’s a good thing. Sure, you get less horse power, but these are much more reliable and cheaper to maintain and fix in the long run AND who can complain about 523 horses and 553 torques under the hood of a family car? That’s pretty insane if you ask me especially since you get M level performance with the room and comfort of an SUV.

This beast can get to 60 miles an hour in about 4 seconds if you use launch control, but sadly this isn’t my car, so I will not be showing you this as it is taxing on the transmission, BUT if we can get 1000 likes on this video, I will convince the owner to try it and we’ll make a video about it.

We don’t have any data yet, but with it being the 4th iteration of the N63 engine, it should be fairly reliable over the years and hopefully last a long time, but time will tell.

One thing I know this engine isn’t very good at is fuel economy. You won’t get what anyone would consider good fuel economy out of this, but honestly.. who cares. If you go for the m50i version, you clearly care more about the raw power aspect rather than saving dollars at the gas station. I think it’s finally time to start it up and see what it sounds like.

Exhaust Note:

Since this is an M-Sport car, the engine sound is very important to the overall experience. When you first start the car, you can hear the aggressive V8 rawr and come to live. It sounds great on the outside no matter where you are. On the inside, the engine sound is pumped in through the speakers, so it can sound very loud on the inside, but luckily it can be turned off and you get to hear real exhaust without any fakery. There are a few options to pick from, so you get to decided depending on who you have in the car and what kind of impression you’d like to leave on them. I’d probably turn it off completely and just enjoy the raw engine sounds.

Driving/Summary:

Woooohooo! Wow that is not something you expect from a 5200 pound SUV. The acceleration on this X6 feels very strong and it definitely pushes you into the seat even with half throttle. And the sound, it sounds like a hot rodded V8 when you punch it, yet it is refined to the highest German standards.

As most big BMW cars now-a-days, this SUV has xDrive and being in Chicago, this is a huge benefit and reassurance you won’t get stuck in the snowy winter. Luckily the xDrive here is rear biased, prioritizing the rear wheels and allowing for some fun and better driving characteristics balancing the car out by having the front wheels concentrate on the steering.

Being a big car, I was expecting it to drive.. well, like a big car. But honestly, it doesn’t, It feels like a very sturdy sedan. Somehow, BMW has managed to make this feel sporty. planted and handle well, especially in sport mode where the steering goes heavy. It reminds me of my e92 335 I had many years ago with it’s heavy hydraulic steering. Unlike the e92, you do sit very high up in the air and it almost feels like it wants to understeer, but all things considered, it’s really, really nice to drive, everything fits me perfectly and is very easy to reach from the driving position as well.

Other than the exhaust sound, it’s very quiet inside and some of these even come with the acoustic glass option, so you will definitely be very well insulated from the outside.

Well, that’s about all I have for now on the BMW X6 M50i, if you’d like to see more videos on this car, leave a comment down below and let me know what exactly you’d like to see. Don’t’ forget to subscribe for more car videos and I’ll see you in the next one.

BMW N55 Engine Rebuild Project Part 10 – BMW Crank, No Start Troubleshooting

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Has this been the longest project ever or is this just how YouTube driven projects go? Welcome back to the last video in the BMW N55 engine rebuild series. This BMW 335i N55 project has been one of the most fun for me, but also one of the more frustrating projects I have ever done. In this video, I will show you what else I did after installing the engine, there are plenty of things to do while doing a swap on a car this age. I will also go through the steps I took and all of the things I tried to get it started when it would crank forever, but not start. This crank, but no start condition took a lot of my time and you will never guess what it was.. I felt a little dumb after figuring it out. At the very least, there will be some kind of conclusion by the end of the video, but before we get there, let me remind you what happened in the last video.

After rebuilding the engine, I installed the high-pressure fuel pump, oil filter housing and of course the VANOS solenoids. Then I ran the fuel lines to the fuel pump as well as to the injectors and on the other side I installed the new exhaust manifold with the turbocharger. At the front side of the engine, I installed all of the pulleys, the vibration damper and then I ran the wiring looms. After doing the rest of the small parts, the engine was ready to be put into the car and connected to the transmissions. Of course, there is a lot more to it, but I was able to try starting it at that point. If you’d like to see details, check out the previous video in this playlist.

Now, before we move on, don’t forget to hit that like button to support the channel and subscribe if you’d like to see more from me!

Right after installing the engine and the rest of the necessities, I scanned the car for codes and deleted anything that was in the history. Then I turned on the ignition to see what would happen. I heard the fuel pump come on and the water pump started pumping and building up pressure as well. These were good signs! Prior to this, there were no signs of life coming from the engine and the fix for that was a ground wire that wasn’t making good contact. Now I was able to scan the DME and the rest of the modules and I was sure the engine would start. I’ve connected my other car for some power annnnnd this is all I got in return. (Play starting click 7077). The engine would crank for as long as you had battery power, but would not start.

This is where I started to think really, really hard as to what could be causing this engine not to start. Sure, I still didn’t have the exhaust or axles or some of the sensors installed, but the engine SHOULD HAVE STARTED now!

From my basic understanding the engine needs 4 things to start: air, fuel, spark and compression. So, I started checking one at a time from the easiest to the hardest. I knew the engine was getting air since there was no obstructions or even air filter installed at this stage. This wasn’t the problem. I then checked the spark. I pulled one of the sparkplugs out and cranked the engine. It was nice and bright, so now I was certain that the spark was not the issue, but what about the fuel? Is the engine getting proper fuel? I was expecting the low pressure fuel pump to turn on each time I was about to start the car as it seems to be that way on my Z4 and it’s the same platform. However, it did not. I was worried the fuel wasn’t getting to the fuel rail. So. I grabbed my ThinkTool Scanner and looked at the data stream for the rail pressure. I had a perfect 12 mPa or about 1750psi of pressure. That’s definitely plenty to make the engine go. To triple check that it wasn’t a fuel issue, I connected a cheap-o oscilloscope to the injector to see that it was getting a signal to fire.. which it was. Now the only thing that was left was compression. Unfortunately, I don’t have compression readings on video but all 6 cylinders were at about 180 PSI, which is just fine for this engine and would not be a cause for the engine not to start.

But of course, with modern engines, even if you have all that you need, your engine still may not start if the computer tells it not to. Or at least that was my thought at the time. I connected any and all sensors that I could find, cleared the codes and tried again. At this time the only code that was present on the car was A738: JBE Power Supply Interrupted. My next mission was to figure out what this code was about and how to fix it. Since I had no other codes, I was certain this would be the solution to my no start issue. As the first step, I bought a used JBE module off eBay and swapped it out. The job is fairly easy, but you do have to remove half of the interior on the passenger side to get to the module. After 30 minutes, I was ready to give it another go.. but unfortunately, it made no difference in my case. The code remained active.

At the same time, I noticed that the car would no longer lock using the button on the inside or even from the key fob. This had to be the issue as the key communication is vital to the engine starting.

Electronics are definitely not my strongest skill set when it comes to cars, but with a help of a few friends online, I tracked many wires, checked resistance on certain wires, replaced fuses and relays, but the JBE code remained active. In the last-ditch effort, I bought the entire fuse box online to see if it would make any difference. Replacing the fuse box didn’t take too much time as I’ve already had good access, but the main power wire that came in did give me some trouble. I knew these are a common failure point on these cars, so it was important not to damage anything. Fifteen minutes later, the new fuse box was in! I erased the codes one more time and guess what?? The JBE Code was gone! I was ecstatic and 100% expecting the engine to fire up.. but guess what? Now I had ZERO codes and the same no start condition I’ve been dealing with for weeks now.

My engine had everything it would need, so what else could it be? I know the computer needs to know position of the engine when it’s cranking in order to have it timed properly, so I decided to check the crankshaft sensor. I removed the starter and tested to make 5 volts were getting to the sensor. All was good there. Since I was running out of options and wanted to rule out as many things as possible, I ordered a used one online for a few bucks and replaced it and as you guessed it, nothing changed.

I then replaced the camshaft sensors, using the old ones I had from the original engine and even swapped out the VANOS solenoids in case they went bad somehow and even updated the DME, JBE, CAS and other modules to the latest firmware. All to no avail.

Since the engine wouldn’t start at this point, I figured I’d get busy with finishing the rest of the items on my list and hoping that at some point the solution will come to me or someone will give me a suggestion I can try. The first item for me was re-attaching the rest of the exhaust. When I initially removed it while removing the engine, I had to cut off the bolts as they were rusted on and wouldn’t come off any other way. That meant removing them from the catalytic converter, getting new downpipe exhaust gaskets and a set of new bolts. It all came together rather nicely after that. After re-hanging the rest of the exhaust and tightening the enforcement plates, it was ready to roar.. well once it starts.

Of course, in order for the car to move or even be lowered from the jack stands, I needed to put the front axles back in. I have a video on how to remove these and as they say, the installation is just the opposite of removal. Only catch here is to use new seals and of course a new axle nut. Once both of the axles were in, I could fill the front differential with gear oil.

Many of you suggested installing an aftermarket charge pipe, so I got a VRSF kit. I swapped the sensor and got it in place. It’s an easy upgrade and seemed to be made of quality material, definitely a better quality over the OEM charge pipe that cracks after a couple of installs or removals not to mention it looks much better.

While working on all of these items and thinking back to all of the suggestions and help I got from wonderful BMW enthusiasts online, I went over the possibilities in my head over and over again. What could possibly make the engine not start when it clearly has everything it needs. 

The only logical explanation at this point was that the engine wasn’t timed properly. BUT HOW? I have reviewed the video I have made on replacing the timing chain and it was done correctly, everything lined up and the engine was in Top Dead Center.. or was it? Let’s investigate.

I couldn’t think of any way to actually test this so I went to work taking off the valve cover and everything that was in the way. The entire process took me about an hour and a half total and that was mostly because I could get the gasket to stay in place when reassembly. I’m moving ahead of myself here, but after taking off the valve cover here is what I found. VIDEO I got to work making sure the timing was perfect this time and still wondering how could I mess up this bad. I have re-watched my video on the timing chain replacement and you can clearly see that the timing was done correctly. Then I remembered that last minute I decided to replace the chain components for new ones and that’s when I must have rotated  has cost me hours and hours of troubleshooting, but I don’t blame myself too much as I learned a ton as to what makes the engine go and what it needs to start. Would I have been happier if it started a couple months ago when I first installed it? Absolutely, but, at the end, the engine is now running and I can’t be happier! There are many other things I want to do on this car once the budget allows, so stay tuned!

Well guys, this might be the longest video I have ever done and if you stuck to the very end, thank you! Let me know in the comments what mistakes you’ve done doing big projects like this and how did you figure it out. I’m curious to know and maybe it’ll make me feel just a little better about this one. Thanks for watching and I’ll see you in the next one!

BMW N55 Engine Rebuild Project Part 9 – Engine Install and Assembly

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It has been over a month and if you are following my BMW N55 Engine rebuild project, you might be wondering what the heck happened and why haven’t I posted a video on the rest of the assembly, install of the engine and of course the engine running! This isn’t because I haven’t been working on it or the lack of trying, but mostly because I ran into a very major, what I assume to be electrical issue that I am not equipped or knowledgeable enough to fix. I wanted my last video in the rebuild series to be where I start the engine at the very end, but unfortunately, it will not be this video. The video where I explain what I have tried and my results is coming up shortly, but in this video, I will go over the remaining assembly and installation of the engine.

But before I continue, check out the BMW N55 engine rebuild playlist from the beginning if this is your first video here and hit that like button for the YouTube algorithm to help out the channel, it’s free!

In the last couple videos in this series, I installed the front and rear crankshaft seals, the valve and oil pan gaskets and the injectors. Now, of course there is still plenty left to do at this point, so I installed the high-pressure fuel pump. I’ve decided not a get a new one and reused the one that came on the original engine. Of course, I got a new O ring installed on it to make sure there were no leaks in the future. With the fuel pump installed, I could then install the oil filter housing, once again, renewing the gaskets as this is a very common spot for oil to leak from on these engines. I then torqued the bolts to spec as I mention in the video.

Some of you will no doubt comment below asking why haven’t I replaced this or that or upgraded certain parts and it’s an easy guess , it all comes to down to cost. Just like with any other project, there is a budget limitation and I have set myself a limited budget for the engine and car. If you don’t like the sound of that, don’t worry! I’ll be looking for my next project in a few short months and I’ll be modifying and upgrading at the same time of the rebuild on that one. Or least that’s my plan. This project was proving to myself that I can rebuild an engine without anyone’s help. Anyway, as you can see, I have also reused the VANOS solenoid. These tested just fine and I gave them a good clean right before installing.

At this point, things started moving a little faster. I installed the high-pressure fuel lines from the fuel pump to the injectors. You want to use a crowfoot wrenches to torque these down and prevent fuel leaks in the future.

With this side of the engine looking a little more complete, it was time to switch to the other side and install the exhaust manifold with the turbocharger.

I scraped remnants of the old gaskets out, cleaned the area and then installed them one by one. They should fit on there snuggly and will be crushed when the assembly is installed and torqued down. The O rings on the oil lines are a quick swap for a set of new ones and it’s time to marry it to the engine. I suggest angling the engine a little more or have someone help you as it can be a little awkward to get it in there and put the first couple bolts in at the same time. A cordless drill makes a quick work of getting the flange nuts finger tight and then it’s time for the torque wrench to get these up to spec. It’s important not to retighten them after the first or second round and follow the procedure exactly if you don’t want to have exhaust leaks in the future. Off camera, I also attached and torqued down the turbo oil lines as well as the bracket below the turbo housing itself and after some more plumbing, this side of the engine is done for now.

I then switched to the front of the engine and the first item on my list was to switch over the belt tensioner from the old block to the newly built engine. This is one of those items I didn’t really think about at the time of building the engine, but I would definitely recommend switching out the idler pulley for a new one. This might be a future DIY I will tackle with the engine in the car. In the meantime, I install the vibration damper, which now I have learned would have benefited from a front crank seal guard plate, you live and you learn! If any of you think of doing something like this at home, it’s honestly worth it just for the amount of engine knowledge you will get in the return, not to mention the patience! Anyway, I drop the front differential in place and torque it to spec. Next on the list is the water pump, this sucker just goes in and with a help of a couple bolts it’s in place.

Most of the big items are now installed, so I install the engine support that will attach to the engine mount and then the heatshield above the exhaust manifold that holds the vacuum regulator. I then position the spark plug and injector wires in their place, torque down the spark plugs and then install the ignition coils. The top of the engine is pretty much done at this stage and I can proceed to installing the wiring loom on the front of the engine. There are lots of small little wires going everywhere here, but luckily, they all seem to just be long enough to plug into the sensor or part that it’s supposed to. The plugs are different between them most of the time as well. One important item here is to not forget the ground wire on the bottom left corner of the engine. The same goes for the intake side of the engine, the bird nest of wires slides onto the engine and then I start sorting them out and plugging in what I can. The rest will be plugged in once the ECU and the rest of the intake sensors are close by.

Look at this beauty now! It’s starting to look more and more like a real engine and at this point I’m getting really excited to get this finished and put it back in the car, but before I get too excited, we still have to install a couple of parts. If you are wondering why am I struggling with this on the engine hoist, well.. it was impossible to do while on the engine stand as the engine stand was in the way of the bolts for the flywheel and I couldn’t think of any other way of doing this at the time.

And now for one of my favorite shots of this video, I love how after weeks of working on this engine and replacing most of the parts on the inside, it slides into the engine bay and is ready to be connected to its life lines. One of the struggles I had here is getting the AC compressor to go around the engine. I chose not to disconnect it as I don’t’ have the equipment to draw off the refrigerant in the system and having to call someone in sounded like a hassle.

THE END:

Well, this part was filmed over a month ago and OH how I wish it went to plan. The engine was supposed to fire up at that point and after some finishing touches, I would be enjoying my BMW 335i and all the work I have put into it. Unfortunately, it did not go to plan from this point on and the engine wouldn’t start. It would crank for as long as the battery would allow, but would not fire or even sputter. With that in mind, it’s time to end this video as it’s already far longer than I wanted it to be, but I wanted to show each step. Subscribe to the channel to stay tuned and to find out what I have tried so far to get the engine started. The list is long and I think you will find it interesting where my head was going troubleshooting this engine. That’s all for now, thank you so much for watching and I will see you in the next one!

Most Requested Mod on my BMWs – Replacing Kidney Grills on BMW Z4 and 550

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Hey guys and welcome back to the SimpleCarGuy channel. Ever since I started posting videos online, I have gotten many suggestions, requests, complaints and even compliments once in a while, but the part that seemed to bother people the most and maybe had the most comments overall was that I had the M colors on the grill! So, in this video I’m replacing the fake M kidney grills with regular gloss black on both the BMW Z4 and the 550i.

Now, I installed mine before I knew how much people hated these and the stigma behind them. Everyone knows not to put M badges on a regular car, but what’s the harm in the M kidney grills? Well, apparently a lot as you cannot go on a forum or video without people complaining and hating on cars! So, for your pleasure and mine, let’s get these new shiny black ONLY grills installed and make the world a better place!

Do you agree with the general opinion? Leave a comment down below and let me know your opinion on this and while you are there, hit that like bottom for the Youtube Algorithm and maybe more than 20 people will see this video. Let’s get to it!

BMW Z4 Cat-Back Exhaust – SuperSprint Sport Muffler

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Hey Guys and welcome back to the SimpleCarGuy Channel. About a year ago, I decided to upgrade the sound on my BMW Z4 and as the first step, I went with a SuperSprint resonator delete. It definitely made a difference and I got many more pop and burbles while driving, but OF COURSE, I wanted more. So, a few months ago, I ordered the sport muffler from the same company. I’m not sponsored by SuperSprint and I paid full price, the reason I picked them was because.. well, no one else makes stuff for this car. When I tool this muffler to a couple local shops, they all told me it would be 600-800 dollars to make the pipe between the muffler and the existing resonator delete pipe out of stainless steel. Since the pre-made stainless steel pipe was half the price from SuperSprint, I went for it. Unfortunately, it went on backorder and I had to wait a couple of months for all the parts to get here.

Finally, I have everything needed to have a full Cat-back exhaust on my BMW Z4. Meaning everything past the catalytic converter will be aftermarket and should sound much throatier and more aggressive. It will also allow me to start looking into some tunes in the future. Will the sound be worth the price? Let’s get all of this installed and find out together!

After getting the car up in the air as far as I felt would be safe, I still did not have enough space to cut the exhaust off with precision, so I went to my local shop to get it installed instead of proceeding on the driveway. Unfortunately, I couldn’t film as it was getting installed, but here is the end result! It looks great and cost me less than a nice dinner for two but now let’s see how it sounds. There are 3 different version of exhaust in this video. The first few clips I have stock exhaust, then you will hear resonator delete and finally full cat-back super sprint exhaust. Now would be a great time to hit that like button for YouTube algorithm and of course leave a comment down below letting me know what you think of the sound. Don’t forget, this a turbo 4 cylinder and not a V8!